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This is the blog of Steve Burkett of Italy, Our Italy

Allegrini Winery

Any idea how many different wine-producing companies there are in Italy? I don’t know either, but I know that there are a lot of them.

I now have a favorite in northern Italy (Banfi is my favorite Tuscan winery), and it is Allegrini. Read on and I’ll explain why.

Our Visit to Allegrini Winery

We had a lovely 10am visit to Villa Della Torre headquarters of Allegrini wines. The Allegrini winery, situated in the heart of the Fumane region, is a beautiful and historical villa. Fumane is in the Province of Verona, in the Italian region called the Veneto, which is in the northern part of Italy.

The Allegrini family have been active in Fumane since the 16th century. The 6th and 7th generation of Allegrini are actively producing Allegrini wines today.

Olmo guided us around this lovely property. Here he explains the locations of the various vineyards of the Allegrini winery, as we wait to taste the wines of our tasting.

Sister-in-law Leslie looks about on the grounds of the Villa Della Torre.

The Villa Della Torre, was built in the late 1500s. One of the most mysterious features are the fireplaces, shaped like huge monsters…something to do with the Renaissance idea that man can tame nature, perhaps. Whatever the reasoning, the four different fireplaces are quite a spectacle. They represent, from left to right, the devil, a sea monster, angels holding open the mouth of some un-identified creature, and brother-in-law Craig with the lion fireplace.

Here, Olmo explains the soil layers of the vineyard that produces the grapes for the Palazzo Della Torre wine. Yes, this is a quality soil…very low on organics (i.e. dirt) and high on mineral.

The Wines of Allegrini

Below you can see a sampling of the wines produced by Allegrini. From left to right they are their white wine called Soave, the fabulous Amarone, Valpolicella Classico, Palazzo Della Torre, and their recioto (sweet) Giovani Allegrini.

The Grapes of Allegrini

Five grapes varieties are responsible for the red wines of Allegrini. They are (from left to right, below) Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, and Oseleta. And a small bit of the Sangiovese grape is used in some of the wines.

The Palazzo Della Torre Wine

As it is an outstanding wine for the price, I will be focusing on the Palazzo Della Torre wine label.

Giovanni Allegrini began to cultivate the abandoned land of the Palazzo Della Torre. In 1978, the grapes grown there were used to make the first Palazzo Della Torre wine, but it wasn’t until 1990 that Palazzo Della Torre underwent a revolutionary technique known as ‘double fermentation’, and this is what put it on the wines-of-Italy map.

In the Palazzo Della Torre wine production, the grapes (Corvina Veronese 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 25%, Sangiovese 5%) are harvested by hand, rather than by machine.

About 70% of the grapes are pressed for their juice and then fermented in stainless-steel vats to produce a stage-one wine. While this wine is aging, the other 30% of the grapes are set aside for appassimento, or grape drying. These grapes are dried until January, at which point they are pressed for their raisined juice. This subsequent pressing, called a must, is added to the already produced wine, which regenerates it for a double fermentation — this in oak casks. What results is the absolutely delicious and reasonably priced Palazzo Della Torre wine. As it is usually less than $15, it is a fabulous bargain.

Click on the image to the right to see a nice diagram of the Palazzo Della Torre process

The Amarone Wine

OK, this is THE wine of northern Italy. If you want to splurge a bit with a truly fine wine, go for Amarone. Its richness of flavor is not in any way accidental…it is the appassimento process that makes this wine so fine.

Amarone production has similarities to the just mentioned Palazzo Della Torre in that its grapes (Corvina Veronese 45%, Corvinone 45%, Rondinella 5%, Oseleta 5%) are dried from 100-120 days (depending on the winter weather) before they are pressed for their juice. Where only 30% of the Palazzo Della Torre grapes are raisinated through appassimento, all of the grapes for Amarone are dried before pressing.

The soil for growing the grapes for Amarone is varied, but mostly clayey and chalky soils of volcanic origin. Hand harvesting of only select grape bunches is carried out in late September. The appassimento (drying process) finds the grapes being naturally dried for 3-4 months in the drying facility, where the grapes lose 40-45% of their original weight. They are then de-stemmed and soft-pressed in early January.

Appassimento - The Grape-Drying Process

Wonder what those raisinated grapes look like? The two photos below will give you an idea of the drying results.

The drying grapes are spread in plastic racks that are stacked in a drying warehouse. The odor from these drying grapes is marvelously heady.

Here is what the raisined grapes look like after drying.

So, that’s the story of our visit to the Allegrini winery. The visit was great, and the wines that they produce are of exceptional quality. Their Valpolicella, Palazzo Della Torre, and their Amarone come highly recommended by those of us who have tasted them. And then there is their recioto, or desert wine, known as Recioto Giovanni Allegrini…oh, so yummy.

Though you may not be able to visit the winery, you can visit their wines at your local wine store. And, you will probably find me pulling a few bottles off the rack, too.

Ciao for now,

Steve

A Trip to Italy in Your Future? Read On!

Index of Blog Articles

Though there are no photos specifically related to the subject of today’s article, I have sprinkled in a few photos from the Lake Como environs to break up the text monotony. Click on an image for a larger view.

Introduction

My wife Ellen and I love Italy. We love to go to Italy. When we are not in Italy, we love talking to each other about Italy. And we often find ourselves talking to others about our love of Italy…sometimes, when prompted, but often just out of the clear blue…like that clear blue sky on a warm Tuscan afternoon, or the clear blue of the waters off the Isle of Capri, or the…sorry, there I go again!

Our reward in talking to others about Italy is the voyeuristic joy of mind-traveling there. After all, we can’t be there all the time, right?

It’s really nice when someone asks me specifically about travel to, and in, Italy, rather than me just rattling on uninvited. A couple of friends did so recently. L asked about pre- and post-cruise visits to Rome and Venice. M asked about travel to the Lake District, specifically Lake Como. As we have been to each on several occasions, I feel comfortable in my responses.

Disclaimer

Besides the mind-traveling voyeuristic joys, I get joy in passing on tips that might help readers get more enjoyment from their visit to Italy. But, I want to make it clear that we have not been to all parts of Italy, and I would not try to wax endlessly about some place that we have not visited. However, where we have visited, I feel compelled to share our experiences, as I can often clarify some otherwise-confusing things, especially where our own experience was a learning experience, sometimes learning the hard way (see Get Lost!!! and Wild Goose Chase, for example).

My Blog Articles

Today’s blog article is number 80. I have to admit that several of those 80 articles were related to my horn-tooting regarding recognition of my photography…I am a bit proud of that. But, by-and-large, most articles concern eating, drinking, lodging, the land, or the people of Italy. So, hopefully wedged in there somewhere is information that may be of benefit to you as you make your way to and within Italy.

As it turns out, I have an index of those 80 articles. And that index is organized in what I hope is a helpful way. That index is called the Index of Blog Articles, and it can be found at the top-right of the more recent blog articles.

This Index of Blog Articles is organized by publication date (the left column) and by subject (the right column). The subject headings are:

Getting To & Around Italy
Go There: Amalfi Coast
Go There: Lake District
Go There: Piemonte
Go There: Tuscany
Go There: Valpolicella Area
Go There: Venice
Go There: Miscellaneous
Adventures & Anecdotes
Eat Here
Stay Here
Italian History Tidbits
Italy-Photo Transformations
Photography Itself
Miscellaneous
Recognition

Articles in the subject column may appear in more than one subject heading. For example, the sections on where to eat and stay (I’ll let you guess under which headings you will find those) are also found in the appropriate Go There:-specific sections, also.

So, back to L who wants to enjoy Italy before and after a cruise…a cruise that ends in our favorite Italian town of Venice. What I provided to L is a reference to my Index of Blog Articles. As they are going to Venice, an obvious set of articles would be found in Go There: Venice. But, as they first need to get to, and then around, Italy (there may be little choice in this matter because of the cruise aspects of the trip, but there may be some leeway) the section titled Getting To & Around Italy should be of interest, also.

And now for M, who is thinking about Lake Como. I directed him to the Go There: Lake District section. As of this writing, only Lake Como is covered in that section, but articles on Lake Maggiore, Lake Garda, and Lake Lugano are in the works. And, as I have suggestions on getting to and around Italy that I think will be helpful to M, I directed him to Getting To & Around Italy, also. Finally, as I’m hoping that M will stay other places in Italy, I suggested that he look at other Go There: articles for places he may enjoy visiting.

OK, I think you can understand the benefit of checking out my blog articles as you plan your trip to Italy — and specifically using the Index of Blog Articles you will find at the top of each blog article. Give it a try, and then let me know how it worked out for you…maybe I can create an articles about your own experiences!

Ciao for now,

Steve

Transforming a Barolo Door

Index of Articles

“Today’s blue door did not start off blue, but brown. I wasn’t too happy with the exterior decorator’s choice of color, so I painted it blue myself”

This week’s article is a simple transformation of a theoretically photogenic door. At the time that I saw the door in the small town of Barolo in the Piemonte, I suspected that I could turn that door from a snapshot into a fine-art photo. Let’s see what you think…

The favored wine of the Langhe of the Piemonte is the Barolo wine, which is named after the small Langhe village of non-other-than Barolo. This village is most assuredly photogenic. In future blog articles, you will see other ‘Transformation…’ articles featuring photos taken in Barolo.

Here is the final transformed door, just as I imagined it when I took the photos there in ‘the field’.

Today’s blue door did not start off blue, but brown. I wasn’t too happy with the exterior decorator’s choice of color, so I painted it blue myself…digitally, of course. And, to be sure that I had enough high-quality pixels to use in this transformation, l elected to take three photos that I would then stitch into a panorama.

Here are the three original snapshots that gave me what I needed for this transformation.

After stitching the three photos together into a lethargic panorama, as seen here. Not much to look at, huh…except for a lot of distortion.

The doorways to the left and right were just distractions to the star of this show — that being the multi-paneled door. Now I pulled out the paint brush and changed that dull door into a nice blue, rustic door. Additionally, that metal plate on the brick street needed to go, so I eliminated it. The door to the left and ally to the right also needed to go, so I eliminated both of them. Here is the transformation, thus far.

Oh, about that letter slot. Normally, I eliminate obviously modern paraphernalia like pad locks and letter slots to go along with my desire to give you a timeless Italy. But, this letter slot intrigued me. I like the patina and the fact that it says ‘Lettere’ (that’s Italian for ‘letters’, by the way). So, I decided to leave the letter slot in place, which I’m sure pleases the residents no end.

The last thing left is that disturbing distortion in the stone work of the wall…done. And once again, here is the final, transformed blue door of Barolo.

So, how did I do on the job of transforming that dull, brown door?

I hope you enjoyed today’s image-centric article.

Ciao for now,

Steve

The Results Are In -- Part 17

Index of Articles

Me, trying to find an erupting geyser in a blizzard

“Trees: Life in the Slow Lane”…that was the gallery show topic of the Vermont PhotoPlace Gallery in their May-June, 2019, showing. The photo that I submitted, and that was accepted for the show, was taken just this winter in Yellowstone National Park.

“The photo selected for the showing was taken at the Fountain Paint Pots...”

My lovely wife, Ellen, surprised me with a Christmas gift of two weeks photographing in the Yellowstone-Teton area during early February. This took care of one of my bucket-list items.

Two photo tours were arranged by Ellen. The first was spent in northern Yellowstone National Park in search of wolves, among many other species of wildlife. The second tour started in Teton National Park and included a snow-coach ride to Old Faithful. What a joy that was as heavy and continuing snow fell as we seemed to float our way from the town of West Yellowstone to Old Faithful. Along the way, we had ample opportunity to take photos.

The photo selected for the showing was taken at the Fountain Paint Pots between Old Faithful and Madison Junction. I was drawn to the stark contrast of dark trees, golden-colored waters, and white snow.

I know. I know. You are asking yourself (and me through extrasensory means), “Are those colors real?!”. And I answer, “Yes, they are'“. It has something to do with the algae and minerals and mysterious things of nature like that.

The Double Whammy

Recognition for this photo doesn’t stop at the PhotoPlace Gallery.

There is an interesting photo website that is ironically called, “Don’t Take Pictures”. I think the point of the name must be that we should be taking photos instead…maybe? I don’t know.

Anyway, I was contacted by Kat Kiernan, the site host, about using this photo as the ‘Photo of the Day’ on their website. Of course, I said “Yes”. So they did, as shown here.

That’s it for today. I will be back to Italy in my next installment. Meanwhile, if you would like to see photos from my Yellowstone and Teton experience, you can view a sampling just below.

Yes, those last two photos are a beautiful amber-eyed wolf and a grizzly. Yellowstone is a fabulous place — especially in winter.

Until next time when Italy will once again be the topic…don’t drink yellow water!

Ciao for now,

Steve

Eat Here: Donna Selvatica in Neive

Index of Articles

You’ve heard of the term, “A Diamond in the Rough”, which refers to something special surrounded by something not so special. I was going to suggest that for a subtitle for this article, but it just doesn’t work. The Ristorante Donna Selvatica is surely a diamond, but it doesn’t sit in a rough…it sits in a charming hillside town called Neive.

So, let’s say that Donna Selvatica is a diamond on a golden crown, instead.

We happened upon this place within a place after a long afternoon of wining at Michele Chiarlo’s Le Orme vineyards and Calamandrana winery…I know, someone has to do it, so we gave of ourselves for each of you. And, you’re welcome.

“The folks of Neive finally had something to be proud of when their last homegrown countess, Countess Maria Vittoria, became Queen of Spain”

Ristorante Donna Selvatica

As just mentioned, we spent the afternoon touring the Michele Chiarlo vineyards, winery, and tasting room (more on that in a future article). It was early evening as we headed west to our lodgings at Villa Gremi. We had not researched, or even thought about, dinner because we were so intrigued with our afternoon activities. So wife Ellen took to Google as we headed west and suddenly shouted out, “Turn right at the next road!”. Being well trained, I turned right at the next road. This road led to heretofore unheard of Neive. Having interpreted the command to, “Park right here!” to mean park right here, I parked. Who says I never listen?!

Walking the cobblestone and brick-paved streets of Neive soon led us to Ristorante Donna Selvatica. As we arrived well before the opening hour of 19:00 (aka 7:00pm), we made a reservation for patio dining and we explored Neive, as described a bit further in this article.

We really liked this restaurant…the location, the view, the ambiance, the service, the wine, the food…everything.

The location is pretty much in the center of Neive, as can be seen in the aerial view a bit further down the page.

But the view…magnificent. The rolling, vine-covered hills go on and on, with the small town of Barbaresco sitting mid-distance.

This closeup view from our table provides detail of the famous Barbaresco Tower, and an elevator ride to its top continues those magnificent views.

For our nightly…daily…frequent…toast, we chose a white wine called Arneis. We had never heard of Arneis until our afternoon tour at Michele Chiarlo, which happens to also produce this crisp, minerally-yet-light wine. The grapes are grown in the Roero area of Piemonte. It is now our favorite white wine of Italy.

Those are in-laws Craig and Leslie Johnson toasting on the patio.

The homemade ravioli pasta with mountain butter and 36-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano is poised and ready to be eaten.

Might this be a mix of potato gnocchi pasta on Castelmagno-cheese cream, and sliced Castelmagno cheese with honeydew honey, jams and Langa Bio hazelnuts? Yes, I believe so. It’s like eating a cheese-covered cloud.

At this point I was in a food coma of some sort, so I don’t remember exactly what this dish is. But, it appears to be duck fixed a couple of ways — one of which is wrapped in pancetta. I’ll find out exactly what it was next time I’m there.

You know how sometimes you don’t have room to order dessert, but they bring you some anyway? I think that’s what this is.

If you are a grappa fan, and I’m thinking that one-in-a-hundred of you might be, they have dozens from which to choose.

Here you can click to see an actual Italian/English menu from Donna Selvatica >>>

But before we depart, I need to tell you what ‘Donna Selvatica’ translates to in English. That would be ‘Wild Woman’. You don’t have to be/take a wild woman to this restaurant; however, Craig and I found that it helps. We love our own wild women!

The Town of Neive

While waiting to eat at Donna Selvatica, we explored to tiny town of Neive.

Like many of the small hill towns of the Piemonte, this one sits on a hill — naturally. The hill upon which it sits is about 4 miles northeast of Alba, which is one of the towns-of-considerable-size in the Piemonte.

Neive is a very small town. This photo shows its extent. Ristorante Donna Selvatica is within the red oval.

Today, things are quiet in Neive, but it hasn’t always been that way. Witness the fate of the nice Castle of Neive that used to stand here proud. The Neivesi had a hard time of it in 1274 because both the communes of Alba and Asti wanted that little hill-top town as their own. The Albesi and Astigiani met for battle, and since neither could pull off the heist of the town, it seems that one or both of them destroyed the Castle of Neive in spite. But did they have to take it out on the nice folks of Neive?!

Then, in the next century they were totally embarrassed when Giangaleazzo Visconti’s daughter Valentina married the Duke of Orleans and the town was given up by her father as her dowry. And I thought an envelope with cash and some jewels were customary.

A couple of centuries later Neive went to the House of Savoy, and then to the French for 17 years before being returned to the House of Savoy. In 1618, Neive became a fief assigned to Count Vittorio Amedeo Dal Pozzo, who assumed the title of First Count of Neive. The folks of Neive finally had something to be proud of when their last homegrown countess, Countess Maria Vittoria became Queen of Spain.

I’m guessing that after all of that, they would just like to be left alone. But go anyway, because in addition to Donna Selvatica there is a particularly nice little shop there.

Fili di Fantasia

Fili di Fantasia translated to English is Fantasy Threads.

We were really surprised to find this nice shop of things with threads open at a late hour — and frankly that it existed at all on its itsy-bitsy street.

Wife Ellen and Sis-in-law Leslie were quite pleased with this little shop.

And, I was quite pleased with the view from the back balcony.

And yes, purchases were made.

Strolling Neive

We found the brick pavers to be a bit easier on the feet than the cobbles, but either are more charming than the typical asphalt pavement.

The church of Saints Peter and Paul existed in the 12th century, but was rebuilt to its present form in the 18th century. I was fortunate to capture in a gorgeous evening light.

The inside of the church is very peaceful with numerous artworks.

Here you see a typical home and garden. Note the soil. It is calcareous and is just what the enologist ordered for the growing of grape vines.

One would think its not so great for vegetable gardens, though.

Love the Italian roof tiles!

Wish I had them on my villa.

Wish I had a villa.

Wish I was even near a villa!

Though these people are not enjoying a meal at Donna Salvatica, they do look to be having a good time.

As we closed out our evening in Neive, we were treated to the lights of the surrounding hill-top towns, with Barbaresco prominently featured in the foreground.

Links…

Ristorante Donna Selvatica

Fili di Fantasia

We fondly remember our afternoon in Neive and our evening dinner at Ristorante Donna Selvatica. If you are in the area, I would recommend that you follow my wife’s advice and, “Turn right at the next road!”…you will not be disappointed…unless you are coming from the other direction, of course.

If we happen to be at Donna Selvatica at the same time one evening, I’ll gladly let you purchase the first bottle of Arneis…I’ll get the second.

Ciao for now,

Steve