BLOG

This is the blog of Steve Burkett of Italy, Our Italy

Getting There: Bellagio

Bellagio is worth getting to...but just how should one go about it?

You've no doubt heard of Bellagio. But we are not speaking of the beautiful Bellagio Hotel of Las Vegas, but the real Bellagio...the one from which the hotel was modeled, complete with lake, though no fountain and light show exist at the real Bellagio.

Just one of the many lakeside towns you will see on your slow-boat journey to Bellagio

“The northern-Italian town of Bellagio has been dubbed ‘the most romantic town in Europe’, and we must agree. What a marvelous setting!”

Lake Como and Bellagio

Bellagio sits on an interesting point in the lake district, about 45 miles north of Milan. What is interesting about Bellagio's location is the spit of land on which it is located on Lago di Como (Lake Como).

As you can see on this map, the lake is said to be shaped like a running person, with Bellagio sitting right in the...how can I say this in a decorous way...well OK, the crotch.

There is no direct train service to Bellagio, so one must travel to Bellagio either by boat or auto. And, as one can get around through most of Italy using trains, with no need for renting an automobile, let's assume are not traveling by automobile.

The quickest way to get to Bellagio is by taking the train from Milan to Varenna, and then by a short ferry-boat ride to Bellagio. But be forewarned -- this is not the best way to get to Bellagio, as I will explain below.

The Slow Boat

The most pleasant and most excellent path to Bellagio is by a slow boat from Como. The route of the slow boat takes you to between 10 to 16 stops on your journey and the ride will take between 2 and 2 1/2 hours to complete (the number of stops and journey time depends on your departure time). Be warned that there is a fast boat, which is shown on the boat schedule in red as 'Speed Service' -- don't take this boat unless you are going to be late for a dinner reservation at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni (or better yet, change your reservation time). The speed service? It's a hydrofoil boat that takes only 45 minutes to complete its journey.

Since there is a boat that is a good bit faster than the slower boat, why extend your journey on this slow boat? Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will be using just a few words -- and many pictures -- to explain why you should take the slow boat to Bellagio.

Your Journey Begins

Your journey to the town of Como will start in Milan. For us, we had taken the overnight-sleeper train from Rome to Milan, so we continued our journey to Como early in the morning from Milan. We wanted to catch to 10am boat, so we would arrive in Bellagio just in time for lunch.

These photos were taken as we worked our way through the train yard at Milan.

It's about 20 miles from Como to Bellagio, and our journey should take about 2 1/2 hours.

The lake opens up before you as our Lake Como journey begins

When you get on the boat, take the stairs up to the upper deck for the best views.

This is why you are taking the slow boat -- beautiful town after charming town all along the lake

This boat is similar to the one we are on right now

Lago di Como is surrounded by mountains...and the auto road that ends at Bellagio can be seen cutting across the hill on the right

Another lakeside town you would love to visit, but we won't be stopping here

A lot of mountain, with just a hint of civilization

The clock shows that it is almost 11am; as we left at 10am, we are about an hour into our journey

There is still a lot of lake left on our journey

Many of the villas along the way have gazebo-like embellishments...a quiet place to sit and contemplate the depths of the lake - which happens to be 1,340 feet at its deepest point!

I wish we were on this boat together right this very minute, enjoying the scenery

That one tree looks like they got it at Hobby Lobby...how is it so perfectly shaped?!

This photo and the four below it show the most beautiful house on the lake...idyllic...you've seen it in many movies, like: A Month by the Lake; Star Wars: Attack of the Clones; and Casino Royale. The villa is called Villa del Balbianello. It had fallen into disrepair in the early 1900s and was bought and restored by an American. When the latest owner died in 1988, he left it to the National Trust of Italy. It is open to the public (see their website here).

Looks to be a little after noon...just about 25 minutes more and we will be at Bellagio

Ahhh...bella Bellagio -- we are at the Cadenabia stop and Bellagio is just across the lake and it's next!

As we approach Bellagio, we see one of the auto ferries that travels between Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna

As we near the dock, we can see our hotel dead center...we are on the top floor of the Metropole, second balcony from the left

And here is our journey's end...and we are just in time for lunch

It's time for a journey's end glass of wine with Scott and Debbie...

...and Ellen has one of her favorite snacks, a grissino, or breadstick

I hope that you are convinced that taking the slow boat to Bellagio is the ultimate journey, one at a pace that gives you time to absorb the charming sights of Lake Como. But, of course, you could have opted for the faster conveyance, below.

The Logistics

Here our friend Scott purchases our tickets as soon as we arrived at the boat dock in Como. It is a good idea to get your tickets early, as the boat does fill up quickly.

Below is the boat schedule, as posted at the ticket office. In the orange box, note the dates for this schedule are between the 1st and 28th of October, 2012. The schedules change drastically after the summer tourist season, so be sure you check online for the correct schedule as you plan your trip.

In the green box is the schedule for the direction of the slow boat from Como to Piona, which is the way we want to go. In the blue box is the yucky hydrofoil Speed Service.

You can see the Navigazione Lago di Como boat schedule on their website. At right is the schedule as of today during the summer of 2016 (but be aware that it is only for service through October 2nd).

So, now you know how to get to Bellagio. Next week, I'll tell you more about the town itself. But trust me, it is a place you will enjoy visiting.

For a related article on an adventure starting in Bellagio, see my article of 07/28/2015 titled 'Stumbling Upon Something Magnificent'.

Ciao for now,

Steve

The Results Are In -- Part 11

New! > Index of Blog Articles

Just a short toot of the horn today...really short.

Right now, I have a photograph being exhibited in the Vermont PhotoPlace Gallery in a showing titled, "Imagined Realities". This non-Italy photo will be exhibited through August 6th.

“That’s slough as rhymes with flew, and not slough as rhymes with rough”

This is one of those instances when I think, 'Alright! The judges get it.'. I'm not sure whether you agree, but the selected photo is one of my favorite manipulations -- though the manipulation is subtle...just the placement of the handwritten letter and some shadows. Thus, I'm happy that the judge agreed that it was worthy of being framed and placed on the walls of this gallery.

Here is the original photo from which I worked.

I took this photo in 2011 while visiting in Maine. I suggested to the owner of this property that it was a bayou, he suggested that it was a slough (that's slough as rhymes with flew, and not slough as rhymes with rough...go figure...why not slew?!). The picturesque slough is between Bath and Wiscasett.

I spent a couple of hours here, some of it in a gentle rain. I would have to admit that as late afternoon turned to evening, it got just a little bit spooky.

Basically, what you see is a lily pad photo. And that's what I saw when I took the photo. Later, I saw something else, as I guess that I was in a state of melancholy. My vision was of a lost love letter, floating just below the surface. So, that's what I created.

Whether the letter was thrown away by the recipient, or whether it blew away without the recipient's permission, I can't say. I'll let you be the judge.

Here's my photo, as it is being exhibited in the gallery this month.

Want to see more of a Maine slough? Then click here.

Ciao for now,

Steve

ps: Thank you to those who pointed out that I definitely have a spelling problem that spell-checker can't solve. This was obvious in the email I sent out last Thursday with photos of time I spent in the desert of Nevada (click here if you missed it). I do know the difference between a dessert and a desert (one is yummy and one is hot), but I obviously didn't understand the correct spelling of each. My sister has now pointed out that the trick is the two s's in dessert, which stand for 'sweet stuff'. OK, I've got it now. And for those who didn't catch the spelling error, you can join me as the first to sit down during a spelling bee.

Eat Here: Terrazza Danieli

For food with a view, this one can't be beat!

“The view from this rooftop, terrace restaurant is exquisite”

The Terrazza at the Hotel Danieli is one of the places we always visit when in Venice. We have mostly dined here for lunch, but have worked in a Sunday brunch, and even a dinner on a perfect evening.

The Terrazza (terrace) sits on the 6th floor, above the Hotel Danieli. The hotel itself is one of those fabulous 5-star hotels that we don't tend to stay in, unless in the off season. Want to see more of the hotel? Watch the movies 'Blame it on the Bellboy', 'The Tourist', or 'Casino Royale' to see more.

Besides the food, the great thing about the Terrazza is the view, which is beautiful whether it is day or night.

If you are going to a beautiful and romantic restaurant, why not travel there in style in a water taxi?! That’s what the Johnsons and Burketts decided to do this evening.

The terrace at the top of the hotel is our destination.

Here we see our friend, Debbie, entering the Danieli on the way to Sunday brunch. As you can see, the inside is a bit fancy.

The view from this rooftop, terrace restaurant is exquisite. You look out at the Bacino San Marco (St Mark's Basin), where the Grand Canal, Giudecca Canal and the lagoon all converge.

The busy Bacino San Marco, with the Canale Grande entering at extreme right

As you look down over the parapet, there are people everywhere. But where you sit on this rooftop terrace is all peace and quiet. Lovely.

Boats are everywhere in the Bacino San Marco. As seen from Terrazza, here is a gondola, with a couple enjoying a mid-day ride.

The Terrazza is just moments away from the Piazza San Marco.

Here from Terrazza, you see the top of the Piazza's 323-foot campanile, topped by the Archangel Gabriel.

Time for Sunday Brunch

Today it's Sunday brunch at the Terrazza with Debbie and Scott.

Here are a few photos of our brunch layout.

You can tell by the smiles that we had an enjoyable brunch!

The Kennedys and the Burketts enjoy yet another meal

Time for Dinner

And now it's time for dinner. As you can see in this evening photo, the terrace is magically situated.

Here are a couple of evening views. First, San Giorgio Maggiore as it sits on its own island, and then the Dogana with its beautifully-domed Santa Maria della Salute.

Craig and Leslie with one of our many, many toasts

The food at the Terrazza is as good as the view...and a view in itself.

Not all restaurants can satisfy my need for a Diet Coke (called Coca-Cola Lite in Europe), but our friend here at Terrazza came through.

Here Elizabete presents our fish before de-boning and serving. There was nary a bone.

As is typical of many Italian restaurants, the staff is friendly and super accommodating.

In closing, here are two very happy customers of the Terrazza at the Danieli. It was a perfect evening, with perfect food, a perfect setting, and a perfect companion.

I wish you good eating!

Ciao for now,

Steve

Your Romantic Gondola Ride

New!> Index of Blog Articles

If you visit Venice, you just must take a ride in a gondola.

Below, I will give you the why, when, where, how and who of putting together your romantic gondola ride. I will intersperse photos of our own romantic gondola rides throughout.

WHY

To visit Venice without taking a ride in a gondola is like not visiting Venice at all. A gondola ride in Venice is the quintessential experience, as the gondola is THE Venetian icon.

What

The gondola is a traditional flat-bottomed boat that is rowed by a gondolier. The rowing oar is not actually attached to the gondola, but is rested on the forcula like the one at right. The gondolier uses some elaborate sequence of strokes to propel the gondola. You can watch a gondolier for hours and not get a good feel for how they move and turn their gondola. It is one of those mysteries of Venetian life.

Every gondola is different, and each is a work of art. The embellishments are unique to the gondolier.

WHEN

My opinion: it makes a difference as to what time of day you take your gondola ride. Take your ride during the day, and it is a gondola ride. Take your ride in the evening, and it is a romantic gondola ride.

We have chosen our gondola ride times based on sunset times. Since a typical ride is about 50 minutes, plan the start of your time so that sunset occurs near the midpoint of your ride.

Another factor concerning the time of day is the amount of boat traffic and the crowds. It seems that the population of Venice during the day is close to twice that of the night. Many of the visitors to Venice are there just for the day...they stay on the mainland and arrive by tour bus. Boat traffic on the Grand Canal is more prolific due to these visitors, as well as needs to supply the town with goods. This means that after five o'clock, things get much, much quieter in Venice. Now Venice is yours to enjoy. Now, it is time for that gondola ride.

WHERE

There are numerous starting points for gondola rides within Venice, but here is our favorite: there is a gondola station at Campo Moise, near the entrance to the Hotel Bauer, just west of Piazza San Marco.

We’ve just settled into our ride with in-laws Leslie and Craig.

The benefit of this starting location is that you get to wander some very picturesque narrow canals before entering the Grand Canal.

And your entrance point to the Grand Canal soon brings you to the famous Rialto Bridge, under which you will pass.

Then your gondolier will take you through a maze of narrow canals to the essential Bridge of Sighs.

Since passing under the Bridge of Sighs is essential, be sure to confirm with your gondolier before your departure that you route will take you there.

Passing under this bridge is essential because it is a known fact that if you kiss your loved one as you pass under the Bridge of Sighs, you will be sure to return to Venice.

It looks as though Debbie and Scott really, really want to come back to Venice!

And Ellen is looking beautiful this fine evening as we enter onto the Grand Canal!

You will pop out onto the Grand Canal, where you will cruise past the Molo and then to the end your ride, right back where you started.

A side note: if you stay at the Hotel Flora (see my article on the Hotel Flora here), you will be just a few steps away from this gondola station.

HOW

Gondola rides in the evening are very popular. I would suggest that you drop by the gondola station during the day to make a reservation and to establish a starting time. The price? Does it really matter?

Do you need a singing gondolier? There aren’t many, if any at all. Usually, if you want singing with your ride, you arrange that in advance and a singer (and usually an accordionist) will ride along with you.

But hey, why not just sing yourself!

WHO

I would suggest taking your romantic gondola ride with the one you love. That’s what I do!

When you take your own romantic gondola ride, I would love to be your gondolier.

Ciao for now,

Steve

Index of Italy, Our Italy Blog Articles

I was asked recently to create an index of my past articles for Italy, Our Italy. So that's what I did!

In this index, you will find all 54 articles that I've published over the past year. That's right -- 54! I no idea that I had that much to say about Italy, but as I can't stop talking about it (according to friends), I guess I might as well be writing about it, too

The index is arranged into two columns.

The first column shows all articles arranged by date, with the most recent at the top of the list.
In the second column, you will find articles arranged by subject categories, with the most recent at the top of the list within category...and many of the articles can be found in more than one Subject category.

Some of the articles are obviously more favorite for me than others. It might be the subject, it might be the photos, or it might just be that I fell in love with my own words as I felt I was waxing poetic. Whatever, I have put the dates of my personal favorites in bold and italic.

All you have to do is click on the title for the article and you will be whisked away to the corresponding article -- as if by magic.

If you are new to my Italy, Our Italy blog articles, I hope that you will take a few moments to peruse the list to see if something strikes your fancy, and that you will then read on. If you are not new to by site, I hope that you will look through the list and revisit your own favorite articles. And, I love to get comments, so feel free to use the 'Comments' box to leave me (and the others who read my articles each week), your comments.

So, with no further adieu...[drum roll]...I give you 'The index'.....

Actually, I did come up with another adieu. I will update the index each week and I will have a link at the top of each article that will take you to the index. OK, now, having actually run out of adieus, here it is for you to click on...

>> Index for Italy, Our Italy Blog Articles <<

Ciao for now,

Steve