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This is the blog of Steve Burkett of Italy, Our Italy

Visiting the Beautiful Island

It’s called Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island. It sits in Lago Maggiore, just off the shore from the town of Stresa. Is the name a misnomer? No, it isn’t.

The island had only a small fishing village until 1632, when Carlo III, of the house of Borromeo, contracted to have a palazzo built in honor of his wife, Isabella. The Borromeos were of Milano fame and had cardinals and such within the family. Poor Carolo III didn’t get to see the completion of the palazzo, because an episode of the plague shut down construction for a good while.

...what was it like to live on the lake, with views like this one from every window of the palazzo?

When all was said and done, a beautiful palazzo sat at the northern end of the island. On the southern 10 acres, an Italian-style garden was completed in 1671.

But, enough of boring history…right? I know. Let’s take a tour of both the palazzo and the gardens. But first, we need to get there.


Getting There

Once again, as when we visited Isola dei Pescatori for lunch at Ristorante Verbano, we boarded a boat to take us the quarter-mile or so to the island.

 

Sister- and brother-in-law Leslie and Craig make instant friends on the short journey from the boat docks at Stresa.

 

As we approach Isola Bella, we are treated to a view of the back-side of the verdant gardens. The upper story of the round building houses the gift shop, which we visited, of course.

 

The Palazzo

As we near the dock, we get a full view of the beautiful palazzo that the Borromeos built on this small island.

 

An iconic Lago Maggiore boat is moored at the palazzo.

 

Here are a few views of the interior of the palazzo, including two chandeliers from the Venetian island of Murano. Remember, you can click on any image to get a larger view.

Here, wife Ellen contemplates what was it like to live on the lake, with views like this one from every window of the palazzo?

 

The main room…I don’t know what else to call it…is beautifully finished with…with…this and that.

From this great room, we get a view of Ristorante Verbano, the site of yesterday’s lunch.

 

As we headed through the other rooms of the palazzo, we passed through the library, loaded with many very rare books. One wonders whether any of these books would be of interest to us in our current times…assuming we could read the language in which they were published.

We found art works adorning the walls, like these two mosaic bird pieces, each about 10” in diameter…

…and this table, which is also a mosaic, as you can tell from the detailed closeup photo.

I have no idea what this is about and I really don’t want to talk about it!

Really, don’t ask.

 

In the lower levels there is a crypt-like room with some historical artifacts within. It looked to me like a mad baker went absolutely berserk with his pastry bag.

 

There was this stoned beauty though, sleeping it off as we passed by.

 

OK, I’m not much of one for tapestries…I’ve seen them in many palaces and museums. But these? I found them fascinating. The detail was exquisite.

So, here is the whimsical scene on one of the tapestries. Can’t say much for the subject matter, but the detail?

And, here is more detail of the thread work. These tapestries were not created on a modern machine loom — the work was all done by hand many, many years ago.

 

Check out this lion-like-thingie with the chagrined look. The hours and hours that were invested in these artworks is amazing.

 

The Gardens

Ellen has this thing for hydrangeas, and there were many to admire here.

Here are a few garden variety views.

Below are our new friends from the Ghisalba class of 1958. Ghisalba is about 30 miles east of Milano.

As I look at the photo and apply a bit of logic, I have concluded that this is not a celebration of a high school class. If these folks were graduating from high school in 1958, they would be close to 80 when this photo was taken, and they look no where close to 80. Must have been elementary school…right? At any rate, they were a friendly group, and they gladly sat for this class portrait. A 5x7 and 12 wallet-sized, please.

This group inspired us to have our own group portrait made.

From the top of the gardens, Craig is able to point out our hotel in the lakeside town of Stresa.

Well, that’s about it for our visit to Isola Bella, and yes, it is a beautiful, and well manicured, island.

 

What we need to do now is find our way back to the boat dock…we are hungry, and we know that there is great food awaiting in Stresa.


That’s it for our visit to Isola Bella and Palazzo Boromeo. It was a pleasant way to spend the morning.

I’m thinking of getting my maritime captain’s license, so that when you’re boating your way to Isola Bella, I’ll turn from the captain’s chair and say…

Ciao for now,

Steve

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A Visit to Villa Cimbrone

A quiet place of peace and marvelous views.

The first mention of Villa Cimbrone is found in the 11th century. The origin of the name comes from the rocky outcrop that surrounds the 20-acre site

 

 

It's time to return to the Amalfi Coast...way above the Amalfi Coast.

 

Getting There

Villa Cimbrone (cheem-bro-neigh) sits in the town of Ravello, at the end of its peninsula-in-the-sky. And Ravello sits high on the escarpment above the town of Amalfi. Getting there is not too difficult, unless you are faint of heart on narrow, winding, ever-climbing, roads.

A pokey Piaggio on the serpentine road

The road from the Amalfi Coast highway to Ravello gets very narrow...so narrow that a traffic light allows cars going up hill to proceed whilst cars traveling down hill wait, and versa vice. And not all of the vehicles travel up the road at the same pace, as you can imagine from this photo.

 

 

[lease click on a photo to get a larger view]

 

Here you see this peninsula-in-the-sky, which is the town of Ravello. Notice the cliff to the left where The Belvedere is located.

A birds-eye view of the Ravello escarpment

The Piazza and Duomo

One parks, or is dropped off by taxi, at the Piazza, where the duomo, or cathedral church, sits.

The Duomo of Ravello

I'm not sure if this is admonishment, praise, or otherwise, but the priest of the Duomo has something to say to his parishioner and her sun-glass-wearing son.

 

Inside the church you will find the typical, gorgeous trappings of Italian churches. Here we see the Angel Gabriel doing battle with Satan, Mary and the soon-to-be-risen Christ, a marble-lion column support, a bronze door with Biblical scenes (well, mostly Biblical, as you can see St George slaying the dragon in one panel), a marble and mosaic altar with Jonah waving farewell as he is devoured by the serpent, and a painted icon.

 

Young entertainers on the Piazza at Ravello

While we were there, a number of the young of Ravello were having fun making music as they marched around town. I'm not sure if the fingers-in-her-ear girl in the rear is enjoying the group's musical attempts.

 

 

Frivolity in Ravello

These two young men seemed to be particularly zealous in their appointed task.

Our first thoughts as we watched these children was, 'This would be a fabulous place to live.'

 

A Walk to the Villa

It is a walk of about 4/10ths-of-a-mile from the piazza to Villa Cimbrone, all the while wandering narrow, pedestrian-only walkways. And along the way, you will have ample opportunity to purchase beautiful, hand-painted Italian ceramics. And we love the care that is taken in wrapping purchases. In the photo on the right, notice the ceramic panel in the top-right -- you will see what that scene is in a moment.

Along the way we saw several shrines and vines, and a cat or two.

We came across an occassional lazy dog sleeping under lemon trees, poppies, and views of other towns across the valley.

This fabulous view took our breath away...town after town clinging to the hillside above Amalfi, marred only with the drifting smoke from someone burning their trash. If one isn't born in a particular town, how on Earth could you decide in which to settle?

Looking to the west from Ravello, where the town of Amalfi sits at the terminus of the distant valley

The Villa

At last, we arrive at Villa Cibrone. The first mention of Villa Cimbrone is found in the 11th century. The origin of the name comes from the rocky outcrop that surrounds the 20-acre site, which can be seen in the aerial photo at the top of this article, which was known as 'Cimbronium'. You can read much more about the history of this property on the Hotel Villa Cimbrone website here.

Today, the estate consists of the villa/hotel, a Michelin-starred restaurant (that being the subject of next week's article), the gardens, and the famous scenic viewpoint known as 'The Belvedere.'

Here is your first view of the vine-covered villa as you approach.

The vine-covered Villa Cimbrone

You see scenes from inside the walls of the villa, just below.

I particularly like this scene of the stairway, and the intricate pattern of iron work found on the door on the landing.

Verdant Gardens

And then there are the gardens.

The Belvedere

The world-famous Belvedere, perched atop a cliff, offers a magnificent view of the Mediterranean, one which these time-worn busts seem want to ignore. 

The busts of The Belvedere

These statues are actually quite whimsical, as their expressions are not what one normally sees in classic carving. See what I mean by clicking on the thumbnails in these closeup views.

They look very content to be sitting there, don't they?

In this view from The Belvedere, you can see more towns to explore along the Amalfi Coast, should one have the time.

View of the Amalfi Coast looking to the east

I'll leave you with a quote from Gore Vidal concerning The Belvedere: 'A wonderful place from which to observe the end of the world." And when it comes to that, I would have to agree.

 

Ciao for now,

Steve

Steve and his lovely wife, Ellen

Next week: The Michelin-starred restaurant at Villa Cimbrone