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Under the Tuscan Fog

Last weeks article on Banfi was admittedly a bit long...but I hope you enjoyed it.

 

Just so you know, the fog did lift and we were able to negotiate the winding Tuscan roads to reach our appointment to tour the Banfi winery

So this week, primarily a few photos from a dreamy Tuscan morning. It was dreamy because of the layers of fog that blanketed the countryside as we headed toward Montalcino.

Our first hint of the morning atmospherics was at sunrise. We were staying at the beautiful Borgo San Felice (see my past article on staying at Borgo San Felice), and as we strolled the vineyard in the early morning, here is what we experienced.

[please click on an image for a larger view]

San Felice Sunrise

As we began our drive for a day in southern Tuscany, we were treated to villas peeking out through the low lying fog.

Just a hint of a Tuscan villa shrouded in fog

Many of the farms have chapels, like the one set off to the right, below.

A villa with its ubiquitous on-property chapel

Our road seemed to be mostly high-and-dry as we drove along the spine of the hills. So, rather than give us angst as we drove, the atmospherics actually lifted our spirits and made our journey more memorable.

It was the month of October, and the hillsides had been recently harvested.

The hillside farms had recently been shorn

After admiring this gorgeous farm estate, if you look closely at the photo below, you can see a hillside village in the distance, as it catches a few morning rays.

A beautiful farm with chapel

We felt fortunate that the fog was not thicker, as we had an important appointment at Castello Banfi winery, just south of Montalcino. On the other hand, the foggy conditions did cause us to drive just a bit more leisurely than we might have driven, giving us more time to admire the scenery...like the cypress-lined drive leading to this magnificent estate.

Tuscan cypress line the drive to this charming farm compound

Sometimes we had a slight, sunny break in the fog as in the photo above, and then once again, we would travel into the enveloping, blue-cool fog as the sun was blotted out.

Vineyards move down the hillside of this grape producing estate

I feel that this last photo somehow captured magic...one moment we saw just a fog bank above a small valley...the next moment two villa-clad hilltops seemed to float up out of the clouds. Magic...His magic, no doubt.

This photo is titled, 'Islands in the Sky'

I am sure that days like this occur often in Tuscany; however, we felt that it was our special day, and that there never had been, nor ever would be, such a day again.

You can see and purchase most of these foggy-morning photos in the 'Print Store' part of my website by clicking right HERE, or by clicking that link in the menu-bar, below.

Just so you know, the fog did lift and we were able to negotiate the winding Tuscan roads to reach our appointment to tour the Banfi winery.  

Ciao for now,

Steve

Stay Here-Eat Here-Drink Here: Banfi

Warning: This article may change your life forever! 

The Banfi Story

This is my longest article thus far...but there is a reason. I want you to know all there is to know about the Banfi Experience so that, you too, might enjoy this fabulous place.

In 1967, the Mariani brothers, John and Harry, traveled to Italy with the aim of importing a wine that would appeal to American tastes (we didn't have much of a wine palate at that time, did we?). They succeeded when they brought Riunite to the US. Remember the slogan, "Riunite on ice, that's nice!"?

[to refresh your memory, click here to see a '70s TV commercial for Riunite] 

By 1983 they had become the number one imported wine in America, with 11,000,000 cases of this popular wine having been imported. 

With funds in hand (you do the math on the sales of 11,000,000 cases of wine), they headed to Italy in 1977 to purchase around 1,800 acres of land just south of the town of Montalcino. Here, they established Castello Banfi, the centerpiece being the dramatic castle itself, which sits atop Poggio alle Mura, seen here.

From 1978, the goal of the two brothers was to create a state-of-the-art winery, combined with the most advanced science in the vineyards, for the production of premium wines. The Mariani family has succeeded in a big way. 

John and Harry purchased properties in other areas of Italy that had established vineyards. But it is interesting to note that the thousands of acres that they purchased in the Montalcino area was mainly barren land, just waiting for them clear and plant.

Their Tuscan estate is most well known for their Brunello wine. Most people would agree that they were instrumental in bringing Brunello to center stage as Italy's premier wine. But, more on wine a bit later.


The Property

The Montalcino-area estate is comprised of over 7,000 acres. In the 18th century, a stone hamlet sprung up surrounding the Castello Poggio alle Mura. That hamlet became the borgo (hotel) and the principal tourist destination of the estate. Below is a photo of the castle, taken many years ago.

[click on an image for a larger view]

Today, the Castello Banfi still sits proud upon its knoll. 

Here are a few more photos of the property surrounding the castle. 

 

Here you can see one of the quiet courtyards, as well as the well-presented and educational Etruscan-glass museum.

Whilst the vintner makes the wine, the bees make the honey


Castello Banfi - Il Borgo (The Hotel)

For us, the main attraction of the property is the hotel, or 'borgo'. The Borgo is comprised of 6 rooms, 8 suites, and a junior suite. In this photo from their website, you can see some of the rooms that cascade down the hillside. 

And here is my wife, Ellen, as she returns to our room from the pool on a path through rosemary...a heady experience.

That is rosemary…not the woman - that’s my wife Ellen…but the plant, which smells heavenly as it is pruned

Our room was the fabulous Summus Suite. Now, we are not accustomed to staying in suites...and that is not what we had booked. But owner Pam Mariani was very sweet to upgrade our room to this extraordinary lodging.

I was so stunned by our accommodation that I think I took only one interior photo during our stay. That photo is from our living room (there was also a very large bedroom and an expansive bathroom...any of the three rooms exceeded the size of a normal hotel room).

The view from our room of the Tuscan countryside was like a painting by Cezanne! 

As I wrote to Pam, "We felt like royalty!" 

 

A full breakfast was made available each morning in the guests-only breakfast room. We opted to dine on the terrace under the glorious Tuscan sun.

And then there was the pool, where we spent the good part of one day. 

Cold, refreshing beverages await you!

 

We were joined at the pool by swifts that skimmed the pool to drink water as they flew by.

And what is that strange bird that kept visiting?

 

The greenery was well kept by the grounds keepers.


The Vineyards

A portion of Banfi's expansive vineyards surround the castle. Here are a few photos taken during our stroll through the makings of a future Brunello. 

In this photo, you can see that olive groves and grape vines align on the Banfi lands. 


Dining at Banfi

There are two dining options at Banfi -- La Taverna for a traditional, rustic lunch, and La Sala dei Grappoli for an elegant dinner.

     La Taverna

In this photo, the entrance to La Taverna lies just ahead.

La Taverna is a classical Tuscan restaurant in the shade of the medieval castle of Poggio alle Mura. Taverna Banfi is positioned beneath the vaulted arches of the former barrel cellars of the castle, where Brunello once rested in large oak casks.

But today, the menu offers the traditional dishes of Montalcino and Tuscany. 

 

On our 2012 visit to La Taverna, we had a special tasting menu with wine pairings.

We dined well on both of our trips to Banfi. Below are some photos from our meal with our great friends, Debbie and Scott Kennedy. For more on traveling to Italy with friends, see my blog article titled, "Traveling with Friends". 

 

That’s me toasting our Banfi hosts…and a Brunello toast is always in order!

Both Daniela and Erney took care to make sure all was perfect, including the wines that were paired with our meal.

You can see that Erney is serving up our dessert wine, which is called 'Florus' -- it is hard to describe just how yummy this sweet wine is as it crosses the palate.

I have to say that it has surpassed Moscato d'Asti as my favorite dessert wine.

Here you can see the rich golden, straw-colored, dessert wine.

 

And here is the noon-time detritus that we left behind as we departed to explore the winery. 

     La Sala dei Grappoli

It is hard to top the fabulous lunch at La Taverna, but you will have to trust me when I say that La Sala dei Grappoli is an elegant treat. I am embarrased to say that I left my camera in our room when we dined there...so please settle for these photos from the Banfi web site.

 


The Winery

The Banfi winery is state-of-the-art. As new-comers, they were not tied to centuries-old traditions in wine making. So, Banfi defined state-of-the-art wine making through their revolutionary technical research and innovation. And do they keep all of their gained knowledge to themselves? No, they do not. They freely share all they have learned in wine making with their Montalcino-area neighbors, as they believe that it is not a single wine label that makes an area known to wine lovers, but a whole varietal area. As such, Banfi has put Brunello di Montalcino on the world-wide map. 

Here are a few photos from our tour of the pristine Banfi winery, which is about 2 miles from Castello Banfi. What you see first is the incoming Sangiovese grape.

Michela was our lovely winery guide. She did an excellent job of explaining such Banfi inspired processes as their dual-material, oak and stainless steel fermentation vats…truly innovative.

Michela explains the intricacies of the Banfi winery

Here you see the hybrid stainless-steel and wood, temperature-controlled vinification tanks.

After vinification, their Brunello di Montalcino is held for a long, silent, two-year rest in wood, where it gains its distinctive characteristics of strength, elegance and longevity. There are more than 7,000 barrels laid out in orderly rows.  

They poetically say that this aging in wooden barrels and casks, "make up the heart of Banfi, which beats in the silent and peaceful ambiance surrounding our winery."

I can say no more.

The Kennedys and the Burketts amid the aging Banfi wines


Enoteca

But, there is still the Enoteca, or wine shop. Here, one can taste and purchase wines for shipment home, including wines that are hard for us to find in the U.S. 

Banfi’s Enoteca is the most beautiful of all the Italians that we have visited. Scott and Debbie were certainly pleased.

And, let's not forget that you can purchase Banfi's extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar (read below regarding quantity), also. 

But, from whence does the balsamic come? Read on!

 

Balsameria

Banfi's balsamic is called 'Salsa Etrusca', in honor of the traditional methods of the ancient Etruscans.

While in the Enoteca, ask for a key to the balsamaeria. But be forewarned: prepare to have your head explode with the pungent, sweet goodness of aging balsamic! When you step through that door, as Ellen is doing here...wow! 

The Trebbiano and Moscadello grapes are harvested late, when their sugars are concentrated, and they are then gently pressed.  The must is filtered and then simmered to reduce it in volume and further concentrate its flavor.  After cooling, it is transferred to wooden casks for 4 – 8 months.

In the balsameria, you can read about the process and see the barrels as the salsa balsamica ages. Note the linen cloths that sit above the evaporation hole in the barrel, held down with a circle of silver chain. 

During this aging, the process of “balsamization” begins.  Successively the balsamic is racked into progressively smaller barrels (from 60 to 25 liters) of different woods, in the order of oak, chestnut, cherry, ash and mulberry, until the filling of the 25 liter barrels. As liquid heaven is removed from the oldest barrels, an equal amount is added from it’s younger neighbor. After about 12 years of aging, you can enjoy the salsa balsamica.

I was flabbergasted to learn from their website that, because of the long process and limited number of barrels, each year only three liters of Salso Etrusca are bottled from the oldest finishing barrels. Because of its very limited production, pick it up in the Enoteca while you are there. 


Our thanks to Daniela, Erney, Gabriella, Lucio, Magdalena, Marco, Margherita,

Massimo, Michela ,Paul, Sarena, and all of the others

who made our stay seem one as family, rather than clients.


You might ask, “Do you drink only Banfi wines?” I’d have to say when it comes to wines of Italy, it accounts for the majority of wines that we drink, both whites and reds.

Well, that's Banfi as we see it. A magnificent place...not to be missed when visiting Tuscany. And if you are able, please plan to stay for a couple of nights...or more. I know that you will enjoy it as much as we enjoyed it. 

Write if you plan to go. Maybe we can meet for a nice lunch or elegant dinner, just as we did with these friends.

Steve, Ellen, Debbie & Scott


 
 
 

Here are the webpages you will need to learn more about beautiful Banfi:

Ciao for now,

Steve

 

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p.s. Well, as I can't resist, one last, parting view of this magnificent retreat...

The Results Are In - Part 9

I recently filled you in on recognition in the 8th International Color Awards, and I feel compelled to keep you up to date regarding additional recognition.

I am always pleased when a juror or jurors single out my work for recognition. That is not the driving force in my photographic work, but it does give one a boost when it is received!

This recognition concerns the PhotoPlace Gallery in Middlebury, Vermont. This gallery is strictly for photography and their themed exhibits change monthly. You last saw two of my exhibited photos in my article The Results Are In! Part 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6 (it was part 5, by the way).

Today's article covers three different exhibits -- one past, one current, and one upcoming. Here are the works that have received recognition.

 

FYI: You can see a slideshow recap of all awards, recognition and accolades by clicking the RECOGNITION link on my webpage.

Theme: Going Places 

Sept 22 - Oct 23, 2015

This photo is titled "Movin' On". It was taken on a wonderful day in The Highlands of Iceland. The vehicle in the photo was one of eight or so that I saw that day on this 160 mile road. And the road? It is exactly as you see it here for its entire length. 

Movin' On

Want to see a bit more of Iceland? See my YouTube video.

Theme: Up Close and Personal 

May 11 - June 13, 2016

Two photos were selected for the current Up Close And Personal exhibit. 

This first photo is one of my favorite flower photos. There are millions of dogwood trees blooming in the southeastern U.S. in the spring, and I enjoy seeing them. Traveling one of the many narrow back roads of Tennessee, I was able to capture this photogenic dogwood branch. As I traveled through the southeast last month, I was again treated all along the way to these spectacular blooms.

Dogwood

Here is a dandelion puff that you may have seen before. It was one of my first recognized photos from when Black & White Magazine had a companion color photo contest in 2012. My wife, Ellen, and I were picnicing in Vail along Gore Creek when I spotted this healthy puff. I used a bit of strategery to pluck just a few of the seeds to reveal the heart of the puff in this photo which I have titled 'Puff Fluff'. 

Puff Fluff

Here is the color version from Black & White Magazine, which received a Silver Award back in 2012. It is just the upper-right quadrant of the same image, above.

 

Theme: Flight

June 8 - July 1, 2016

Both the photographer Ansel Adams and painter Georgia O'Keefe made the San Francisco de Assisi Church at Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico, famous in the early 1930s. My more modern version is just below. 'Ranchos Morning' was indeed taken in the morning. I believe that the passing bird adds to the drama of this fabulous adobe church, which was completed in 1816.

In her Juror's statement, juror Laura Moya cited this photo in particular as she said, "Details in some of the imagery stick with me...a hawk soars above the famed Ranchos de Taos church...". 

Ranchos Morning

I am always pleased when a juror or jurors single out my work for recognition. That is not the driving force in my photographic work, but it does give one a boost when it is received!

Ciao for now,

Steve

My Twitter Feed...

Evening at Piazza San Marco

The Contrast

USA: Dinner, a drive, a movie, a drive...to bed.

Venice: Dinner...lingering over dinner...a stroll through quiet streets...orchestral music on the Piazza San Marco until the midnight bell tolls...to bed.

Three of the restaurants on the Piazza have orchestra stands from which music entertains you througout the evening

There is a big difference between the evenings in Italy and in the US.

Dinner in Italy is unhurried. There is no rush. Your dinner partner(s) and waitstaff are your entertainment. Each course arrives at just the appropriate time. The wine level in the bottle seems to lower at just the right pace. There is no rush. A grappa will be offered at some point after dessert. There is no rush. There is no rush. You've finally gotten it through your head...there is no rush. You won't receive your bill until you ask for it...'Il Conto, per favore'. Never were you rushed. This is your evening.

And after dinner? When the sun dims, the evening begins to shine for us. The heat of the day has been lifted. Campos which were full of vendors during the day have been miraculously cleared for outdoor dining. People are laughing and having a good time. After dinner, those fortunate to stay overnight in Venice are heading to Piazza San Marco for the nightly concert...or should I say, concerts.

The Piazza

There is only one gathering space in Venice large enough to be called a 'piazza' -- the rest are piazzetta or campo. Surrounded on three sides by consistent city buildings and on the fourth by the Basilica San Marco, Piazza San Marco is huge. 

Here is a photo of the Piazza that was taken in January from the balcony of the Basilica...if you haven't been to Venice, trust me that only in the winter will you find so few people here.  

Panorama of Piazza San Marco taken from the balcony of Basilica San Marco

The Campanile

Note that you can see the base of the Campanile (bell tower) in the photo. Here is the top of the Campanile, where the bell is located. The bell tolls an important event in your evening.

 

Original Campanile in ruins after its collapse

But, this is not the original campanile which was completed in 1514. Here is a photo of the original campanile, after its collapse on July 14, 1902 at 9:45am. Not as tall as it was the day before. Today's campanile was completed in 1912. And alas, though there were 5 bells (all tuned to a different octave of 'A') in the original campanile, each named and having its own tolling function, four of the bells were destroyed in the disaster, so that today there is only one bell.

A few of the pigeons of the Piazza

One of the joys...I guess it's a joy...are the pigeons of the piazza. In the past, one could purchase bird feed to attract these pesky birds. But, the wise city fathers have now prohibited the act to try to reduce the number of pigeons on the piazza. 

 

Concert Time

In the two photos below, which were taken in the evening from the Campanile, you see the sights of your entertainment for the evening. 

Western end of the Piazza San Marco

North side of the Piazza San Marco

Three of the restaurants on the Piazza have orchestra stands from which music entertains you througout the evening. On the left in the top photo is the Caffe Florian. In the lower photo are Ristorante Quadri on the left and Cafe Lavena on the right.

To avoid the cacophony of sound that would result from all of the orchestras playing at the same time, they take turns. So, if you stand in the middle of the Piazza, you can wander from one side to the other to enjoy the music. Want to dance with your partner? Go ahead. Want to sit down for a cappuccino or soda? Go ahead, but expect to pay a hefty cover charge. But either way, you will enjoy the evening of music.

Here are some photos of the musicians as they make their music...just for you. 

The orchestra of Caffe Florian

The Evening's End

At midnight, all will be finished. You will know the time by the one, solitary tolling of the Marangona bell of the campanile. It's now time to return to your hotel. Tomorrow will bring many more memories for the two of you in the world's most magical city.

No dinner and a movie here...just dinner and memories to last a life time. 

 

Ciao for now,

Steve

The Results Are In - Part 8

I received a recent award notification for The 8th International Color Awards. This is another of those big competitions that have entrants from over 80 countries and have over 8,000 photos submitted. 

Several of my photos were nominated for further judging, and as a result, two were recognized as Honorable Mentions by the jury.

I have to admit that only 4 of the 12 photos in recognition were taken in Italy, the rest were taken here in the USA and Iceland. Here are the photos -- just click on a photo for a larger view.

Honorable Mentions

Abstract Category

This first photo is called 'Bourbon Street R & R'. The photo style is what I call a 'slurred' photo. I used a very slow shutter speed to allow movement of the subject. I have had a lot of fun with this process. The photo, 'Pink House Slurred' below was taken with the same process. You can see many other of these slurred photos on my non-Italy website here

Bourbon Street R & R

Fine Art Category

If you are a regular reader of my articles, you have seen 'Busy Day on the Grand Canal' before...and, here it is again. This photo was created using over 80 photos taken in about one hour from the Rialto Bridge in Venice. Be sure to check out that couple in the boat at the bottom-center of the photo.

Busy Day on the Grand Canal

Nominated

Abstract Category

'Pink House Slurred' is one of the slurred photos mentioned above. It was taken in the Texas panhandle from a moving vehicle at 73mph...this according to the Texas State Trooper. 

Pink House Slurred

Architecture Category

The photo of the abandoned church, aptly titled 'Abandoned Church' (catchy, huh?), was taken in northern New Mexico in the small (very small) town of Grenville. 

Abandoned Church

This next photo was taken during a serendipitous lunar-puddle moment in Iceland after a long day of driving The Highlands. It was captured during sunset, which in Iceland literally lasts about 3 hours in the summer. I call this 'Icelandic Barn at Sunset'...I know, I know...another catchy title.

Icelandic Barn at Sunset'

Fine Art Category

The photo called 'Just Around the Corner' was taken on the island of Burano, in the Venetian lagoon. I liked the way the sunlight was hitting the orange-painted plaster of one of the many colorful homes of Burano. 

Just Around the Corner

Nature Category

Back to Iceland and the outlet of the Jokulsarlon Lagoon for 'Blue Ice, Black Sand'. This is where icebergs are washed out to sea, only to be washed ashore to die a cold, dripping death. There are more Iceland photos here

Blue Ice, Black Sand

This photo is titled 'Church Rock' because that is what it's called, when translated from Icelandic.  It is another photo taken in Iceland during one of those super-long sunsets. And yes, the mountainside is truly that green.

Church Rock

'Evening Seastacks' was captured late one afternoon at Second Beach on the Washington coast on the Olympic Peninsula. 

Evening Seastacks

In the extreme north of Arizona, on the Navajo Reservation, you will find the magnificent Antelope Canyon, this being the northern portion of that canyon. The very deep sandstone canyon has been cut over the centuries and I was able to capture it looking straight up with 'Just a Chance of Clouds'. 

Just a Chance of Clouds

People Category

In 'Sunday Morning Paper' we see a stylish Roman gentleman reading his morning paper in Campo Trevi, which is home to the famous Trevi Fountain. 

Sunday Morning Paper

Still Life Category

I call this photo 'A Very Still Life', because that is exactly what I saw when I came across it on the island of Burano. 

A Very Still Life

 

Well, that's it. Some of these photos you have seen before in the other articles with titles beginning with 'The Results Are In...'  I'll keep you up to date as I hear about other results coming in. 

Ciao for now,

Steve