BLOG

This is the blog of Steve Burkett of Italy, Our Italy

Major Renovation

I recently completed a major renovation. 'At your home?', you ask. 'No', I say, 'it's another remodel in Venice.'

“As you probably know by now, I don’t want to present today’s Venice to you, but one from several centuries ago. So...with tools in hand, I begin the renovation.”

That's the subject of today's article...another Italian door transformation, but this one, a major renovation. See what I mean below.

Below is the original snapshot that I captured in Venice in 2012. As we find in many renovations, there was a lot that I didn't like when I saw this door, but I also saw some potential.

The original snapshot showing the renovation job ahead of me.

Here is what I didn't like about the scene as it appeared before me. I felt that the symmetry was ruined by the sliver of canal on the right. Does that drainpipe and bit of window on the left add to the architects vision? I don't think so.

As you probably know by now, I don't want to present today's Venice to you, but one from several centuries ago. So, the six apartment ringers on the left and the one on the right need to go. With tools in hand, I begin the renovation.

The canal demolition was easy...with crop tool in hand, all I had to do was chip away a bit at the right side of the image.

I removed the ringer at the right and then patched the hole that was left. Ditto the set of six ringers on the left...but it took a bit more plaster to complete that job.

That pesky drainpipe was a problem. As was the short half pillar. And then there is that bit of wall with window. But, as they say in Italy, "Nessun problema!"

With the proper tools, I was able to cut out the drain pipe, form up and cast the short pillar, and I even though I'm not a stone mason, I had the skills to do some repair to the stone pavement. I'm beginning to see that this job is not insurmountable.

So, below is the current status of my renovation.

Here is the current status of this renovation

Now, this is more of what I had envisioned when I saw the scene before me. Things are beginning to take shape.

There is still a bit more to do, though.

I think that only a designer with a skilled eye can see the changes wrought below, which mainly constitute applying a bit of darkened patina to the plaster work.

But, you with your skilled eye can, I'm sure, see that I've missed a significant element in my renovation work. Yes, it's the mail slot! That mail slot has to go...and it did. Don't bother to look around in nearby trash bins, as I've hidden it away where the residents won't be able to find it!

But, after I got rid of the mail slot, I felt that the huge knocker on the right sat lonely. I went to my catalogs and was able to find a duplicate, which I duly ordered and then installed on the door on the left. Better...I find the two big knockers to be satisfying.

Oh, I then called in an un-locksmith to un-install the modern lock. Gone.

And then as most renovations end, I went through paint chips so that I could apply a fresh coat of paint to the doors. The basic color was the same as the original doors, but I selected a more saturated blue, with just a bit more white in it to lighten the color.

That's it for this week. A complete renovation of a Venetian door. This one fairly dramatic with the removal of that wall et al on the left...and the complete removal of a Venetian canal.

Those knockers remind me of a knock-knock joke. Here it is. I'll leave it to you to start it off -- go ahead:

You: 'Knock-knock'
Me: 'Who's there?'
You: 'Uhhhh....'
Me: [I'm laughing uproariously]

Ciao for now,

Steve

Stay Here: Hotel Flora

Venice can beat you down!

Don't get me wrong, it's the most magical and fabulous city in the world (maybe the whole universe, but I can’t make that claim…yet), but with the exception of a rare boat ride on the Grand Canal, your mode of transportation is always your feet.

The Hotel Flora is located in a quiet oasis just off Calle Larga XXII Marzo

“Before we head out for the evening, let’s recuperate a bit in our comfortable room. Go ahead and put your feet up. Maybe trade foot rubs with your loved one? ”

In the summer, the heat and hordes of tourists can drive you to drink, but that's OK, as the Hotel Flora has an oasis of a bar and a quiet, peaceful garden courtyard for your respite. [Note: I suggest avoiding the summer months if at all possible -- visit Venice in the fall or spring for less heat and crowds -- or we found January to be very charming with virtually no crowds]

The Hotel Flora has an outstanding location! On this map, I've colorfully shown the primary sites and routes within the San Marco district. The Hotel Flora is centrally located, as I've shown in the red box. Click on photos to see larger views.

Arrival at the Hotel Flora is a easy. A water taxi from the train station or airport can get you within 50 paces, with no need to go up and down bridge steps.

Since I'm on that subject ‘steps’, let me expound a bit. You don't want to be schlepping your baggage to your hotel! I've mentioned before the 409 bridges of Venice, most of which you ascend and descend via steps. If you're like us, and I certainly know that we are, then you probably travel with numerous pieces of baggage. Here's a poor guy who defines 'schlepping'.

It seems to me that hotel travel sites like TripAdvisor should include a 'Schlep Factor' when describing hotels in the magical city of Venice. My advice, use a water taxi to get as close to your hotel as possible. For the Hotel Flora, you're just a level hop-skip-and-a-jump from boat to lobby.

Your Room

Each time we've stayed in the Flora our rooms were simply delightful. Just below, you can see our room, as well as the view from our room. And there is nothing lacking in the well-appointed bathrooms.

Below, I'll take you through your Venetian day as you stay at the Hotel Flora. Let's start with going down the stairs (and there is an elevator if you wish).

Stairs

There are four floors to the Hotel Flora.

The stairs are beautifully appointed. Let's walk down to our morning meal, colazione.

Breakfast

This is not your American box-motel breakfast! In the photos below from the hotel's website, you get an accurate idea of what you should expect.

You are free to dine indoors in the comfortable dining area, if you wish. This morning dining area doubles as the afternoon/evening lounge.

We prefer to take breakfast in the quiet garden, as you can see here. If you looked in the two windows at the top, you would be looking into our room.

The beautiful and quiet garden of the Hotel Flora

Your Venetian Day

If you are like most of the tourist visiting Venice, you will head out at mid-morning when things have opened for the day. The exception would be you who like to rise early and wander Venice with fewer others present…this is a nice time for Venice exploring. And then there is the Rialto Market, where you will want to arrive early in the morning to see the start of the day's activity.

After breakfast, you will more than likely have lunch out and about at one of the hundreds of outdoor trattoria. All have their menu posted so that you can see what they offer, just as this gentleman is doing in the photo just below. For some reason, it seems to me that he and this eating establishment will be simpatico.

These two are having lunch at an outdoor trattoria on the Campo Santa Stefano.

After a nice meal with unusually outstanding house wine, you will head out again to see the sites, shop, and learn just how fabulous Venice really is.

Tired now, aren't you? That's a lot of walking. Wouldn't you like to sit for a bit to relax? Let's do that in...

The Courtyard and Bar

Here's my friend Scott about to grab ‘due prosecco por favore’ to take to the garden courtyard. The Hotel Flora bar is well stocked and the prosecco is cold, just as you like it.

Your table awaits, and it sure feels good to sit for a bit to rest your feet.

Well chilled, bubbly, refreshing, and tasty. Ahhhh.

Do you like to read? Maybe it's time to pull out your book and sit quietly for a bit.

The Evening

Before we head out for the evening, let's recuperate a bit in our comfortable room. Go ahead and put your feet up. Maybe trade foot rubs with your loved one?

Heading out from the well-located Hotel Flora, you will have many, many fine-dining opportunities within an easy walk. So, go ahead and put on your heals.

These two fashionable gals (Debbie and Ellen) are heading down the runway of the Hotel Flora's narrow calle into ancient Venice. I know where they are going...and you may, too -- if you read my recent article on Ristorante Antico Martini. It's only a short walk.

Returning Home

Italy is not a country of dinner and a movie. This is the place where dinner is the construct of the evening. Plan to spend at least three hours enjoying the atmosphere, the waiters, perhaps the view, and of course the food and wine. But in Venice, there is another opportunity before your head hits the pillow, so let's be sure to walk through piazza San Marco as we head home. Read here to see how we like to enjoy our Piazza San Marco Venetian evenings.

Your Hotel Flora awaits down that narrow calle.

As the evening passes, you reflect on this day, and then the next.

That's the lovely Hotel Flora. I recommend it highly. If you want to explore more, here is the link to the Hotel Flora: http://www.hotelflora.it/

There is one thing, though. There's this mosaic in the courtyard that intrigues me. Not sure from whence it comes, who created it. Perhaps it's there to remind us that relaxing after a long day of walking is something that is encouraged. Maybe that lounging while on vacation is an activity in itself.

Whatever the purpose, I have to say I like it...but that's just me...it appeals to my artistic interests...I mean I do enjoy the Titians, Tiepolos, Tintorettos and all...surely this should just be thought of as one more of the many wonderful works of art that should be experienced in Venice...right? And, I know it would never be confused with those wonderful mosaics that cover every inch of the Basilica San Marco that I've shown you before. Maybe you have some insight? If so, use the comment box to let me know.

Ciao for now,

Steve

Transforming a Water Gate #2

On March 22nd, I presented to you Transforming a Water Gate #1. Today, I transform another of these uniquely Venetian phenomena....just for you.

“So, there you have another example of Venice brought back from the present to the past”

Here is today's water gate, with modern distractions which give me great pause in my quest for a Venice of days-gone-by. But I'm not averse to all of these distractions. Normally I would eliminate the downspout, but I'm thinking that I can age it a bit and not treat it as a character flaw. And the laundry and plastic at the top can be cropped out.

Original snapshot with distracting elements

Below is the image with a tighter crop and some alignment of verticals.

The lines are now straightened and some elements have been cropped out

And here we are at the stage where I start to add an atmosphere of aging to the image.

Starting to look a bit more old-Venetian

And for the final photo, more cracks, grit and saturation of the colors.

So, there you have another example of Venice brought back from the present to the past. That's my job...and I enjoy it. I hope you do, too.

Ciao for now,

Steve

Amalfi Stairs

“If you want to shop, this is not the path for you! But, if you want to get home quickly and without being run down, this way is perfect.”

This week, it's back to Amalfi. We've been there before in One Fine Day! and Staying in a Convent Retreat. But today, I want to tell you about the stairs and passages of Amalfi.

Amalfi is situated in a ravine that comes down from the mountains to the harbor of Amalfi. The buildings of Amalfi are situated up the slopes of the ravine. At the very bottom of the ravine, there is a small road -- and this road is the main thoroughfare through the town, as you can see in the photo below.

[click a photo for a larger view]

As the buildings were constructed centuries ago before automobiles and trucks were envisioned, the roadway is very narrow. Here is a photo of this main street through the heart of Amalfi -- yes, that is THE street.

The roadway is so narrow that there is a traffic light that queues traffic wanting to travel one direction, whilst the traffic going the opposite direction works its way through the crowds. As you can tell from the photo, this is really a pedestrian-mall-roadway combination.

Here is another photo with vehicles making their way through the masses.

When the buildings were constructed many years ago, a number of alleyways were set aside within the structures. Some of the alleyways parallel the path of the roadway, while some work their way up through the buildings that cascade down the sides of the ravine.

Here is one of the alleyways that traverse the same path as the roadway, but under the protection of the surrounding buildings.

If you want to shop, this is not the path for you! But, if you want to get home quickly and without being run down, this way is perfect. You just have to know the hidden-away location of these passages.

These hidden-away passages are the subject of today's article, and I will be focusing on the stairways that travel up the ravine-situated buildings. And, at the same time, I am giving you a two-for-one article, as you also get one of my photo transformation articles rolled in.

Stairway #1

Here is a snapshot of one of those stairways. It's a long way up there.

By now, you know that I have a bit of an OCD issue with modern bits and pieces in my dream-world of an Italy of another time. To satisfy my compulsion, I just have to remove these items.

Here is the photo with modern matters resolved.

And, to get that age-old look that I am after, I've added a sepia tone and worn-frame look. Here is the final version of this very long stairway.

And, what might lie waaaaaay up there at the end of this stairway? The photo below tells us that to the right is a pizzeria and to the left is the Patrizia (Patricia's) Esthetician Center, of course. Only a local with well-formed calves would know.

Stairway #2

In the passage below, you can see that there was just a bit of wrought iron and stair railing with which to deal. It's zapped away in the second photo and the final sepia version is at the right.

[click on a thumbnail for a larger view of the photo series]

Stairway #3

In this series, you can see that there was a panel to the left, a person entering the door at the top of the stairs, and a plethora of electrical wiring in the arched alcove. In the second photo, all is gone and the sepia version ages this passage a bit.

Stairway #4

This stairway was the most challenging. In the archway to the left is a sign for another pizzeria and a scooter -- maybe for pizza delivery? On the right are a number of panels and several electrical conduits. Working up the stairs are other detriti that I felt compelled to remove. In photo two all is cleaned up, except the ages-old grime that has worked its way down the stairway.

To bring home the compactness of Amalfi and the forced interaction of pedestrian and vehicle that stems from the old working its way into the new, here is one more photo. This one shows my wife, Ellen, as she walks the 'sidewalk' along the main Amalfi Coast highway on the way to a Michelin-starred La Caravella restaurant (which will be the subject of a future article).

I hope you have enjoyed seeing some of these hidden, secret passages of Amalfi. When you go, how about wandering around up there a bit -- we may run into each other!

Ciao for now,

Steve

Iron-Bar Windows

A super short article today...mostly a couple of photos.

While wandering Venice, I happened upon an apartment building with some interesting windows. After passing by several of the windows, I began to notice that they were each crafted in a different way. Though all were barred with iron, each had a pattern that was unique.

“Here I’ve put 15 of these unique windows together in a collage”

Here is the building to which I refer with its Corte de L'Albero. You may recognize the pozzo in the courtyard, as it was one in my recent article called Venetian Pozzi, and it was a featured transformation in Transforming the Pozzi.

The windows on the far side of the building were a bit different than the ones seen above, in that one set was craftily 'framed' in carved stone with dentils and one was just framed with large stone blocks. These two photos give you a better idea of what I describe.

Ironwork framed with carved stone

Simple stone window surround

Here I've put 15 of these unique windows together in a collage. You can click on the image to get a larger view.

A collage of iron-barred windows in Venice

I never cease to be amazed by the craftsmanship that can be found throughout Venice in all sorts of elements.

One last thing about Corte de L'Albero: playing off of a recent article regarding the pozzi of Venice and the Venetian water supply, here is one of the more modern water fountains that can be found throughout Venice.

Though this gentleman is just washing up, the locals are not shy about drinking from these fountains, as the water is rumored to be fresh from the Italian alps.

Many of the motif are lion heads with water issuing forth from their mouth, like this one.

That's it for today. I told you it would be a short one.

Ciao for now,

Steve

p.s. Oh, one more thing...I love to get comments on my articles, but many of you have expressed some consternation about how to do that...it is not as easy as I would hope. I've contacted my web host (Squarespace) and they assure me that they are working on it. In the meantime, here is what you can do:

1) Click on 'Comment' just below in this article (the look depends on whether you are using a computer, iPad, iPhone or similar).

2) Click on 'Post Comment'

3) You will probably see a dialogue box something like this one.

4) The default selection is Email Address and Password with the interlocking Ss, as circled in the image, above. This is where the confusion has come into play for the past few months.

5) Click on the human silhouette as shown here.

6) Now, all you have to do is enter your name (or anyone's name for that matter) and ignore the Email and Website URL options, as they are optional...and then click on Login or Submit button (again, depends on what sort of device you are using).

7) Please accept my apologies for this laborious process. Squarespace assures me they are working to make this easier and more intuitive.